Dust and glamour are an unlikely couple. But in Prince Albert, they dance to bring this slice of the Karoo to life. Though the town was founded on agricultural endeavours, dairy and olive farms now stand alongside artistic venues. Together they create an unorthodox countryside escape just four hours from Cape Town. To get there, travellers must first brave the treacherous Swartberg Pass.
Completed in 1888, this gravel road was designed by Thomas Bain and hand-built by convicts. The route, which features hairpin turns through quartzite rock, leads directly into Prince Albert. It’s a national monument and one of many indicators of the area’s history. Another is the network of canals that pattern the town, channeling water from the Swartberg mountains directly to residents to this day. A 65-year-old windmill stands tall outside Botterkraal farmstead, near Victorian and Cape Dutch houses. While the buildings reflect the past, the cattle hint at a rich future. At Gay’s Guernsey Dairy on Church Street, delicious cheeses are set aside to mature with time.
From the antiques at The Olde Shop to the architectural details of the Mont d’Or Swartberg Hotel, every aspect of this area is alluring. Artist Cobus Van Bosch’s oil paintings perfectly depict the landscape and the people who live here. His work takes the spotlight at the Prince Albert Gallery, which also showcases an array of ceramic and etched pieces. But the town’s masterpiece is The Showroom Theatre. Once a car dealership, the art nouveau building now regularly features movies and hosts performances that bring the community together.
Of all the town’s delights, one of the most mesmerising things about Prince Albert is the sky above. When the sun sets, glittering stars take over the show. The stillness of the night is interrupted only by the bleating of sheep in the distance. In winter, occasional snowfall on the mountains gives the darkness an added chill.
Despite its remote location, Prince Albert takes pride in preserving its history and connection to the art world. Stroll through these streets and discover a whistle-stop that’s a whirl of energy.
